Hollywood; Lighter, stiffer, cooler, and a bit more bulletproof

[Hollywood_X]

So a handful of you that follow my threads already know all about my car. For those of you who don't you can read the following in order to get an idea of what all I have tried and changed. Not saying any of the parts are bad I just have an addiction to building and testing :shades: (Of course there were some bad parts and crappy items along the way)

FP GREEN GSR Results and comparisons! - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums
Carbon By Design; Review of all their parts for the X - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums
HollywoodX - 2008 - PB GSR - 2.3L stroked FP Black build on E85 - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums
Hollywood / AMS 750R / E85 / Holy $h!t dump tube Holt $h!t dump tube - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums
WARNING: Do not replace your stock crank pulley with the aluminum aftermarket junk! - EvoXForums.com - Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X Forums

So these are what have lead me to here, everything evolving a bit at a time really. Now I pretty much had my car right where I wanted it when the aftermarket junk crank pulley broke smashing my valves so that set me back a bit. I ended up pulling so many things back out to fix it all correctly that I just decided to go ahead and ship the transmission off to Jack's while I was at it.

I had a few discussions with the other builders but Jack's was the only one that had a solid permanent solution for the center diff pin issue. THe went to the root cause not just a quick fix. As a mechanical engineer that's something I look for when deciding on a good workshop. Also since Jack's is in Colorado it's a quick jump for shipping. Also they now have special cases they send to put your tranny in for shipping. They used mine for the mold to make them so I sent mine in this fancy box :thumbup:



Now while that was out I figured I might as well send my driveline off to AWD and shave some rotational mass and gain a little more responce while beefing up the drive train. So this heavy POS left;



and this came back;



I'm sure this dropped 15-20 pounds by itself as well as stiffened the response. I kind of figured why stop there though and figured it was time to go ahead and install my AMR coilovers since my car was going to be down for a bit. I'll have pics of those when I get further along though :rock: those got me thinking about wheels weight and width. Holding the kind of power I'm making in the corners and feeling safe about it as well as doing a little more about rotational mass. A local friend turned me on to these :thumbup:

SSR type F's 18x10.5 in Gold and weigh 20.1lbs! :confused2: I can pick them up with my pinky :dancebanana: (More pics to come after tranny install)




So while I was under the car swapping items out and doing some cleaning I was checking out my rear diff, and what a big floppy donkey cock that thing is. You can bounce the entire thing with one hand and it just moves every direction. So I went ahead and installed the AMS rear diff kit, and let me tell you this is no easy task. You absolutely need a impact hammer with a blunt nose to do this job. However it is a necessary evil and I am told since I installed this one AWD now has something similar on the market. I advise that you do the driveshaft bushing along with these.





So with the downside of the crappy crank pulley smashing my valves there was an upside. Since I had a few thousand miles on the motor and I was already pulling the head and the tranny my peeps over at ERL Performance threw me a bone and said if I send them my motor to look over / study they would go ahead and bump me up to a sleeved 2.4L for the trouble of pulling it the rest of the way out. (Which was 1 more motor mount anyway.) So they have it now checking out wear patterns along with some other technical stuff that goes over my comprehension. All I know is WOOT 2.4L plus while it's apart I had MAPerformance coat my new ACL race bearings with a special ceramic coating that helps to lower the friction coefficient and fight wear. The cam bearing were my main concern since they are the farthest from the oil pump but I did them all just to be safe.




While talking with MAP about the bearings and some other things we discussed making an oil cooler that can keep up with cars over 600whp. That led us to this beauty; (The lines are HUGE!)



Now I spent some time checking out different options for coatings heat wraps, shielding etc. I want to make sure I don't torch my carbon by design hood (Carbon fiber) over time and I want to keep all my electronics in perfect working condition. So I found a cool company that makes these; (PTP)



This along with a special exhaust coating by Grimspeed and I think I'll be set for keeping the heat down. Also notice the turbine housing is a .82 A/R instead of the .64 I was originally running. I think the .64 was causing me back pressure up top so I am hoping to see a little more top end.

Poor thing is just gutted right now





Shaping up quick though between trips to Colorado and Alaska :thumbup:
I'm still trying to nail down some other items to get the most from my set up.

[Hollywood_X]

So I finally have everything back now and starting to get it all put back together. It is frustrating going back together after being apart so long, I should have marked everything a bit more clearly and taken the time to sort some items out a bit better. Also I just want to mention to those of you starting to get serious with your builds, GET NEW HEAD BOLTS! Not the studs for holding the actual head to the block but the small ones that hold the cams to the head. The 4 in the front on the main bearing cap are larger and torque to 22 ft/lbs and the smaller ones torque to 107 in/lbs. Both are complete shit after a use, for the cost toss the little bastards and get good ones from somewhere like Tacoma Screw. I have seen so many of them busted now and did a few of my own, they just aren't worth the hassle and you sure as hell don't want to waste time extracting a broken screw.

Now to the fun stuff like my NEW 2.4L Sleeved ERL Stroker;








As you can see from my pics above I swapped all my head screws to a higher grade and it was about $25 total to do so.
Now below is more pics of my candy coated tranny from Jacks, I'm stoked to feel it in conjunction with my AWD Motorsports aluminium drive shaft and solid bushings.

[Hollywood_X]

Time to go over the tranny build a bit, links below to get information and pricing;
Jack's Transmission EVO 5 Speed Performance Rebuild (EVO 8 / 9 / 10) - Modern Automotive Performance
Jacks Transmissions LLC — EVOX Review

So me being a mechanical engineer I couldn't just accept "Replace the diff pins" as a valid answer to fix a problem. For years I have been trained to seek out the root of the problem by simply just asking why.
With the center diff issue the root cause ended up being a oil starvation issue due to high centrifugal forces pushing oil out at higher rpms.
Now Jack's had studied this and came up with a valid solution. They elected to weld on an oiling cup that would capture and distribute oil back into the center casing.

Before;


After;


Now looking at the pics here of the center diff you can see a few things going on here.
1) The oiling capture cup
2) the Diff pins have been capped into place, they are now actually free floating.

This is different than what others do and is better for several reasons. Think of it as a free floating piston pin you see with most forged piston and rod sets. This takes a huge amount of load and strain away from the shaft and eliminates the need for locking pins which are what fail in these units. What the others do is replace the factory locking pins with larger treated pins. This is not a good idea as you are putting a band-aid over the problem and not fixing it, which is oil starvation. Lack of oil in the center diff, due to centrifugal forces, is what sheers the locking pins and causes failure. Popping bigger pins in the unit isn’t going to do anything but postpone another failure. The scoops solve this, but converting the shafts to free floating is another plus to ensure reliability. As people have seen in the past when a diff pin fails it destroys the cast case on your transmission making repair vs replacement impossible. Just by having the caps welded on and the pins free floating you drop the possibility of that happening by a HUGE margin.




With my tranny I also opted for the extra heat resistant coating and they went through every part top to bottom making sure it was all perfect.

So I just got back home from Alaska and opened a couple of my boxes chilling in the garage. Two of the most notable as just plain works of art are the Grimmspeed coated pieces and the LiteSpec titanium exhaust. I would consider these to be low cost boutique type items that meet the show and go criteria. Quality and finish on these are just near perfect, some serious attention to detail were applied to every piece.

[Hollywood_X]

My latest piece of the puzzle was the ID2000's though. I maxed my DW 1300's out on E85 and the 5857 and with some of the new mods I'm sure I'll need the extra head room. With these I should have plenty even if I eventually go with the new 6262 later on down the road.





Also these are a dircet fit and no need for pig tails or any splicing, just plug and play.

Now here's a little side note, while I was pulling my car apart Joey blew his rear diff (Being built at Jack's now along side my tranny) well he figured since he was down he might get his tranny done as well and figure he would install a tin disk while he was in there. He found a good deal on an Exedy twin and picked it up. He got it and called me, said the disk's looked thin. I took my calipers over and pulled some measurements off his and the were around 3.5mm on average which seemed thin to me but the person who sold the twin said it was barely used.

So I went home and pulled some measurements on my ClutchMaster 850 Twin disk.



This was an average measurement, not the largest spot. Plus this is after several thousand miles, a few launches, and god knows how many pulls on Cobb Surgelines dyno. So I'm thinking something is off, this other guy had to have ripped off Joey and sold him a clutch that was just plum worn the fuck out. So I started researching Exedy's and friction disk thickness straight out of the box.... 4.05mm average new.... WTF seriously?

Pre Review and Measurements of Exedy Twin HD Cerametallic

So it got me wondering what the Cutchmaster friction disks were new.... 6.5mm :rock: that gives you 2.5mm more friction material straight out of the box. So in a somewhat abusive few thousand miles on my car I managed to eat up 0.21mm of material. :shades: So with that at least I know what to look forward to when beating on mine.



So a few new this to share, I have finally settled on an exhaust.





Full Titanium
Single exit (right hand) cat-back exhaust (two piece design) made with full aerospace grade titanium alloy for super lightweight performance 12lbs for the entire exhaust!
Seamless Tubes Developed with ultra strong seamless pipes (no seam down the middle of the pipe) to increase strength and flow (by as much as 15%) Optimal Size and Bends Designed with an optimum 80mm pipe, (Over 3" pipe) and minimal bends, the full titanium exhaust allows for more flow and increased power and will flow what I need for the power levels I'm looking at.

I'll add sound clips when I get everything all set up, but for now they have one on " Lite-Spec dot com "

Now I have taken my front end apart so so many times it has become a bit worn out. Plus at high speeds it will start to pull down on the front a bit popping the little plastic clips out a bit at times. So I found these as a solution, and they will also allow for ease of pulling the front off later.





Sean from DSG can get these for you if you want some :thumbup:

So for this build I am going to test out a few things, one of them being the A/R ratio options on the 5857. The kit AMS sends includes an option between the .64 and .82 housings. At this point I think I am maxing out the .64's flow and getting too much backpressure beyond 6000rpm. So I am going to test the two different housings on my 2.4L :rock:



You can see the is a noticeable difference



Right now both of them are at Grimspeed along with my mani getting ceramic coated. I also sent them my throttle body in for a light P&P along with a coating to round off the package a bit (More pics when it all comes back)

So I have had these for over a year and am finally going to get them on and all dialed in with the new wheel tire combo.